|
Totally Unique Frequently Asked Questions |
|
| Home Page | BIG Toys |
| Breeder Supplies | Perches, Swings & Bells |
| Health Guarantee | $ 5 Toys |
| Current Price List | Info & Policies |
| Baby Pictures | Site Map |
| Spirulina | Toy Parts |
| Recommended Links |
What follows are some questions I find myself answering more than others. The answers should be viewed as my opinions, and are not intended as medical or legal advice. If you have questions you cannot find here, please e-mail me, and I will respond as quickly as possible.
1) Where is the best place to buy a bird?
2) Which bird is right for me?
3) How can I tell if the bird is healthy?
4) Should I buy it unweaned so it can bond better?
5) What should I feed my new bird?
6) What other accessories will I need?
7) Why should I take my new bird to an avian vet?
8) What are some common hazards for my bird?
9) What kind of cage is best for my bird?
10) How do I bathe my birds?
11) Do I have to trim my birds wings and claws?
12) How long will it take for my bird to learn to talk?
13) My female parrot is constantly laying eggs, is this a problem?
14) What toys are safe for my bird to play with?
15) Is my cigarette smoke a problem for my bird?
16) What can I do about a bird that constantly screams?
17) Should I use water bottles or a water dish?
18) How can I tell if my bird is sick?
19) What are some other Toy Safety Tips?
20) How do you bird-safe your home?
21) Need safe cooking tips for your bird??
What are some other good bird related resources?
1) Where is the best place to buy a bird?
Though I supply pet stores nationwide with my products, I, as a general rule, find it better to purchase your new baby bird from a breeder. Do some research to find local breeders, then ask for references, which they should gladly provide. When you visit the breeder, you may not be allowed inside the actual breeding facility, as some aviaries (such as mine) are closed, to prevent the spread of infection and disease. However, what you are allowed access to should be clean and neat. A good breeder will generally have spent more quality time with the baby, which assures better growth emotionally. Some birds are stuck in the pet store window for months or more at a time, and can develop unwanted psychological problems. The breeder should discuss with you your interests and expectations, and attempt to match a bird species to meet with your lifestyles and needs. If they treat you much the same way a car salesman would, trying to push their latest special, it is time to find another breeder.
2) Which bird is right for me?
Most parrots can be expected to live anywhere from 20 years to more than a humans average lifespan. Keeping this in mind, it is essential that prospective owners evaluate their environments, expectations, and abilities to meet the needs of their new pet. There are several species of parrot to choose from, what follows is a VERY brief description of what to expect from a few.
African Greys: Greys are well known for their talking ability and superior intelligence, however not every one will talk. They all will become great mimics of sounds including many household appliances. Dr. Irene Pepperberg uses them to research parrot intelligence. For more information on that subject, see www.alexfoundation.org. They should not be expected to be by themselves all day, they need some interaction with their owners. They tend to attach themselves to one person, so extra care must be taken to socialize the bird will all members of the family.
Special needs will include: a medium sized cage, a special calcium enriched pellet diet (as they are prone to calcium deficiencies), proper socializing, and lots of toys to prevent feather plucking.
Amazons: There are several species of Amazons, averaging 12"-14" in size. Some can become above average talkers. Again, they require constant socializing among the family if they are not expected to bond to just one person. They have strong personalities, but make wonderful pets for the owner who respects them, and spends time with them.
Special needs will include: a medium sized cage, lots of toys, and a pellet diet. Special care must be taken not to include high fat seeds and nuts in their daily diet as they are prone to obesity.
Cockatoos: Ranging in size from 12"-20", they are well known for their "cuddlebug" reputation. They are highly intelligent, and extremely DEMANDING. They can talk, some better than others. They are recommended by us for those requiring a "family pet", however, if the owners fail to maintain large amounts of quality time with these animals, the results can be devastating.
Special needs and considerations include: Cockatoos need lots of toys and things to chew, or you might need new furniture soon. They produce more dander than any other species, so if you have allergies, keep in mind, they might not be for you. They can be quite boisterous, and most require a large cage so apartments are generally out of the question.
Macaws: Due to their large size (12"-40"), and their spectacular long tails, these birds are what most people think of when they mention parrots. They are very smart, quite beautiful, but demand a lot of attention. They are trainable, and can make a great pet for someone patient, with lots of space and time to dedicate.
Special needs would include: a LARGE cage, lots of attention and training to keep them stimulated, and larger more durable toys.
Conures: These parrots are CHEWERS. They have a reputation for being noisy, but playful and entertaining. Most talk or whistle, and due to their size (8"-18") do not intimidate people as readily as larger species. They come in a variety of colors as well.
Cockatiels and Parakeets (Budgies): These small, friendly birds are much less demanding, and can be extremely entertaining. Both can learn to talk, they are excellent candidates as pets for children, or people who do not wish to keep up with the more demanding larger parrots. They can be housed in cages considerably smaller, and the annual cost of food and upkeep is much less.
3) How can I tell if the bird is healthy?
Start with a good basic health check visually. A bird that is alert with clear eyes and nostrils, good feather condition, a clean vent area, and that has proper color and consistency of its droppings are the bare basics to check. See if the cage or environment the bird is presented in is clean and sanitary. The bird's food and water containers and it's perches should be clean and free of contamination. In addition, a good breeder will have had the bird checked by a licensed avian veterinarian, and will present you with a written health guarantee.
(See a copy of my health guarantee I offered with my weaned babies)
4) Should I buy it unweaned so it can bond better?
Some sources will insist that you need to purchase a baby bird unweaned, and finish hand feeding it yourself to properly bond the bird to you. Completely disregard that and any other information you receive from that source. Hand feeding and weaning a bird is an extremely difficult and involved process that should not be left to inexperienced hands. Not only can it affect the health and nutrition of the bird, if it survives it could also carry long term psychological and emotional scars. Buy your baby bird that has been successfully weaned and eating on it's own for a substantial period of time, and look for breeders that abundance wean. That is they feed the baby all is wants all the time, as opposed to "starving" it to the point of hunger hoping it will eat on it's own. A properly weaned baby bird will be healthy, happy and emotionally confident and secure, therefore making a much better pet.
5) What should I feed my new bird?
The old days of seed diets are over. Scientifically formulated pellet diets have been developed by many companies including but not limited to: Pretty Bird, Lafeber, Kaytee, Harrisons, Zupreem, Roudybush and Hagen. These diets may seem expensive at first, but they will ensure your pet's health and nutrition, and extend their life considerably. Fresh fruits and vegetables are good daily, but do not over do it. Some fruits are very "bulky" and contain more liquid than vitamins, so a little each day is okay. Pet birds are prone to vitamin A deficiencies, so keep that in mind. A good rule of thumb: what is good for you is more than likely good for them. An occasional nut is good, stay away from peanuts, they contain a toxic mold. Other no-no's include Avacado, caffiene, chocolate, alcohol, salt, and rhubarb. Dark leafy vegetables, as well as orange and yellow colored ones, yams (sweet potatoes), most beans, are all great sources of vitamins and proteins. NO JUNK FOOD. Bird develop a salt toxicity quickly, so no chips, etc. Fast Food is another danger, bites of Big Macs can turn deadly. The bacteria in an improperly cooked or prepared patty can make our tummy slightly upset, but could easily kill your new bird.
6) What other accessories will I need?
Of course your bird needs a cage. If the cage does not include a playgym type area on top of it, consider a gym or other tree like exercise area for it to play on when not in the cage. Food bowls, water bottle, pedicure perches, and of course TOYS. I recommend Pedicure Perches to keep your birds toe nails and beak neatly trimmed. Water bottles (we think) are the only sensible way to offer water. Water offered in a bowl becomes quickly contaminated. Toys are a necessity, and you must have more than you can use, so you can exercise a healthy rotation of them. The bird will quickly get bored playing with the same toy day in and day out (wouldn't you?), so you must keep spares so you can rotate them out on a regular basis.
7) Why should I take my new bird to an avian vet?
Besides the obvious: making sure the baby you just bought is healthy, there a number of other reasons to take new bird purchases to your avian veterinarian within 48 hours. Most health guarantees provided by breeders actually demand this as a requirement. If the baby becomes sick later, it helps to know if it is newly developed, or if the baby was already infected when it came home. It is also important to establish a rapport with an avian vet before your baby is actually ill, or you have an emergency. In the case of such an emergency, you don't want to have to worry about whether or not the doctor takes new patients, trying to supply pertinent information which might escape you during a stressful moment, or just plain losing precious time getting lost because you are not familiar with the location. If you are an established patient with your avian vet, they can be an invaluable source of answers and tips should you ever have any questions about your new feathered friend. To find an avian vet in your area, try your local phone directory, contact local breeders or bird clubs for recommendations, or you can search the Association Of Avian Veterinarian's web site for a certified avian vet near you (www.aav.org/).
8) What are some common hazards for my bird?
Besides the food hazards mentioned above, there are many other items to be on the look out for when it comes to your bird's health. What follows is by no means a complete list, but includes some guidelines to start with.
Common household hazards include:
PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene is given off by NONSTICK pans overheated to 536 degrees F or higher. This gas is highly toxic, death occurs rather quickly. We always use exhaust vents when cooking)
hot stoves (or kitchens in general to be safe)
children who do not know how to properly handle birds
Cats and Dogs (especially their saliva, which is highly toxic to birds)
access to phone or electrical cords
uncovered aquariums, ceiling fans, mirrors, fireplaces, and windows.
Other common household poisons include:
| Aerosols Alcohol Antifreeze Aspirin Bleach Caffeine Deodorants Dishwasher Detergents Drain Cleaners Gasoline Insecticides Kerosene | Medications Mothballs Paint(especially Lead-Based) Perfume Pine Oils Paint Removers or Thinners Rat/Mouse poisons/baits Shellacs Shoe Polish Smoke (of any kind) Suntan/Sunscreen Lotions Waxes |
9). What kind of cage is best for my bird?
A good rule of thumb is to get the biggest cage you can afford to buy and that you have adequate room to house. The bird should be able to completely open it's wings without touching the sides of the cage in at least one direction. Make sure that the cage's bar spacing is size appropriate for the species of bird you own. The space between the bars should be 1" - 1 3/8" for larger birds, 3/4" - 1" for medium size birds, and 1/2 to 3/4" for smaller parrots.
10). How do I bathe my birds?
Most birds enjoy baths, and will bathe in the shower with you, or like to spritzed with a misting bottle (on a light setting), or sometimes will bathe in a shallow dish. We always use warm water, comfortable to the touch. Never "soak" your bird. A bath is good for your bird's feathers, and helps control the dander produced by Cockatoos. Some birds may need to be gently introduced to the mister, but it is the easiest to use. I bathe mine daily in the summertime, and less frequently in the winter. The bird can dry by itself as long as the temps in your house are comfortable (at least 65-70 degrees). Some people use a hairdryer set on medium, I do not suggest this. Just do not get the bird too wet, and make sure they are not in a cold room afterwards, and they will dry fine. NEVER put a wet bird to bed for the night. NEVER use soaps, shampoos, or any other chemicals on your bird. NEVER use a mister that was used previously for chemicals of any kind. Make sure it is a new bottle, and label it "Bird" so accidental cross contamination cannot occur.
11). Do I have to trim my birds wings and claws?
I recommend Pedicure Perches to keep your bird's claws and beak trimmed. Without this aid, your bird's claws and beak can become overgrown. I recommend having a veterinarian show you how to properly trim your birds claws before you attempt to do this yourself. Under no circumstances do I recommend attempting to trim your birds beak. This should only be done by an experienced veterinarian. Again, the use of the Pedicure Perches will eliminate the need for these procedures.
We do recommend you keep your birds wings trimmed. This insures your bird's safety both in the house, and in the event they have to be transported outside the house. Again, have an experienced veterinarian show you how to trim the feathers the first time. The money you save is not worth the damage that could be done, both psychologically and physically, from an improper trim or clipping, as opposed to having someone knowledgable instruct you on the proper techniques. Once you have been properly instructed, and feel confident trimming your bird's wings yourself, use safety wing clippers instead of ordinary scissors. The point of normal scissors offer's an extreme danger to your bird, and should never be used. Safety wing clippers allow you to safely clip one feather at a time, and the rounded tip ensures a struggling bird will not be at risk of injury.
12). How long will it take for my bird to learn to talk?
That depends upon the species. What is more important is that you love the bird regardless of when or whether or not it learns to talk! Just because the bird does not speak does not mean it does not want your attention or that it does not love you. Start with a simple word, "Hello" is fairly common and easy to learn. When your bird does learn the word, or is visibly trying to vocalize it, reward him/her with attention. Speak clearly and carefully. Be excited about the word you are trying to teach the bird, make sure you never show the bird impatience, disappointment, or negativity. Try placing the bird in a central location, so it can interact with the family, and hears people talking on a regular basis. When you leave the house, try leaving the television or radio on. There are also "learning programs" on CD or tapes available to help teach your bird. Patience is the key, and remember to love your bird regardless. Not every bird will talk.
13). My female parrot is constantly laying eggs, is this a problem?
Yes, you should talk to your vet. She can develop health problems due to low calcium, so make sure she is on a good diet. Pellets are essential, calcium supplements such as cuttlebone, calcium blocks, MANU, etc. are necessary. Sometimes a slight decrease in the daylight hours (put her to bed an hour or two earlier--covering the cage if you have to) can break her "breeding cycle". Attempting to pair her with a male will not usually help, as his job is only to fertilize the eggs. If you take away the eggs, it may only induce her to lay more. See if the bird loses interest in the eggs if you leave them for a while. But it is essential to talk to your avian vet, so he can assess your birds health, and prescribe medication if necessary.
14). What toys are safe for my bird to play with?
Please realize that NO toy is 100% safe for every bird. When it comes to the safety of your bird, you are ultimately responsible for it's well-being and supervision. Toys are a source of entertainment for your bird, as well as necessary for their mental health. What follows are a few guidelines to help you choose safely.
1) Choose toys that are size appropriate for your bird. If you are unsure, ask the manufacturer or retailer selling the toys. They can give you some ideas of what kind of toy would be good for your bird. Also take into consideration whether your bird is more of an acrobat, a chewer, or a cuddle bug. If your bird is skilled at the simple art of destruction, wood or leather toys would be more appropriate than acrylic.
2) Make sure you purchase zinc-free toys. Links, chains, and other hardware should be stainless steel, or plated with a zinc free coating (like nickel). Galvanized Steel is commonly used in farm applications, and unfortunately in some bird related manufacturing due to it's low cost. It is also a source of zinc, which can lead to zinc poisoning in your bird.
3) I highly recommend bird-safe Pipe Bells. These bells are made of welded steel, then powder coated. The clapper cannot be removed and are much safer than other bells. While I do offer a variety of other bell styles on our website, the Pipe Bells are the safest.
4) Only hang toys with Quicklinks or Pearlinks. Spring-loaded clips, such as dog leash clips, split key rings, etc., have been proven unsafe for bird toes, tongues, beaks and feet.
15). Is my cigarette smoke a problem for my bird?
Absolutely!! A bird's lungs, heart, and arteries are different from those of mammals. Not that any of our bodies are designed to handle cigarette or second hand smoke, but a birds is even less so. There are more than 4,700 chemical compounds in cigarette smoke. At least 43 of these compounds are known carcinogens. Tobacco smoke has been designated a Class-A "human carcinogen." This means that it causes cancer in humans and is unsafe at any level. Birds should never be allowed access to ashtrays or tobacco products of any kind. Ingestion of even small quantities of nicotine or tobacco can cause hyperexcitability, vomiting, seizures and death. Smokers should wash their hands before handling their birds and protect the bird from clothing and furniture that may contain cigarette oils or ash. It is our suggestion, if you, or anyone in the home, is a smoker, that all smoking activities be moved to, and limited to, outside the home. Air purifiers should be installed as well.
16). What can I do about a bird that constantly screams?
All birds make some noise, but constant screaming can be a problem, both for you, and your neighbors. First remember that you can NEVER punish your bird for doing what comes naturally. Now, try to identify when the bird screams. Identify whether it is morning or night, is it when you are home or gone? Is the bird not where it can interact/talk with members of the family, or is it in the middle of the traffic area? Is it when there are loud noises such as yelling, loud stereos or tv's? Have you remembered to feed and water the bird? Have you spent time with the bird? Never punish or yell at the bird, you are merely reinforcing it's behavior. Whenever the bird is quiet, make sure to remove it from it's cage, give it attention, reinforce it's good behavior with rewards. Try moving it's cage to a different area, or maybe it is time to rotate some of it's toys. If wanting attention, most birds will scream, so evaluate the time you have been spending with the animal. If this does not help, try locating an avian behaviorist near you for more ideas.
17). Should I use water bottles or a water dish?
I strongly recommend the use of a water bottle. Birds have a tendency to play, splash, dip, bathe, dunk, swim, and anything else they can think of, in water bowls. This leads to cross contamination, (the proverbial "poop-soup") which is an unhealthy source of drinking water. Remember to replace the water daily, and we suggest taking the bottle down and disinfecting it weekly. This can be done by soaking it in a mild bleach solution for 10 minutes per week, then rinsing thoroughly, or (much easier) run it through the dishwasher. Most dishwashers these days heat the water to 180 degrees which sanitizes the bottle.
18). How can I tell if my bird is sick?
It is important to remember that natural instinct prevents birds from exhibiting signs of illness until they are VERY ILL. Once your bird shows signs of illness, make sure the bird is warm and get it to an avian veterinarian immediately. Droppings are one of the first and best indicators of illness. Bright green or watery droppings are not good. Also if your bird is sitting huddled and puffed up with it's eyes closed. Other signs include wheezing or sneezing, a discharge from the eyes or nasal passages, continual "pumping" of it's tail. A sick bird might change or stop it's song or talking, it may not eat or drink unusually large amounts of water. Pay close attention to your birds habits when it is well, so you will be more apt to catch warning signs should it ever become ill. Any time you are unsure, call your veterinarian, it is always better safe than sorry.
19). What are some other Toy Safety Tips?
1) Check your bird's toys daily! Clip back any frayed ropes, check for other damage to the toy. A parrot's JOB is to destroy the toy--it is instinctive for them; a good toy's JOB is to safely satisfy your birds desire for destruction! Any completely destroyed toys should be removed immediately. Monitor your birds behavior with it's toys, and make sure that while they are chewing/destroying the toy that they are not ingesting the toy's parts.
2) I recommend supervision when birds are playing with their toys. It is a good idea to sit with your bird when introducing new toys or products. If they seem afraid or unsure of new toys/products, introduce these slowly in a secure environment to reduce stress.
3) Purchase toys suitable for your bird's individual needs. If your bird is extremely destructive, please select toys featuring wood and leather rather than plastic. Select larger toys that are size appropriate for Cockatoos and Macaws. If your bird is intimidated by large toys, or if it is not necessarily a "chewer", then consider our smaller toys.
4) Our plastic toys are not made for destructive birds. These toys are good for the "long-haul", typically for smaller species of birds. They are dishwasher safe, and should be cleaned as needed. All of our other toys are MADE TO BE DESTROYED. If your bird is prone to destructive behavior, the healthy solution is to satisfy that need, not try to alter it. Don't look for toys that are "indestructible", rather understand that the bird NEEDS to destroy it's toys. A toy that has been safely destroyed has served it's purpose well!
5)Rotate your bird's toys regularly; I recommend every two weeks. Don't just alter the location of the toy, switch them out with new ones. It helps to keep a variety of new toys on hand for this purpose. This keeps your bird well adjusted to change, and ensures it won't fall victim to boredom.
6) It is normal for your birds to try to undo and remove the quicklinks/pearlinks. Always make sure they are fastened securely. Pearlinks should be replaced by Quicklinks for larger birds. For persistent "locksmith birds", try tightening the quicklinks with pliers.
20).How do you bird-safe your home?
There are many dangers for birds in your house. Make sure your house is "bird safe". If it is safe for a baby, it will be safe for a pet bird.
1) Close the toilet seat cover on all toilets (the bird can drown in the water).
2) Store or dispose of all chemicals, plants, hot grease, soapy water (they love water) to where your bird can’t get to them.
3) Do not put the cage near or against curtains (they will chew on them and get their legs caught) or any other household items the bird can chew on.
4) Wood burning stoves, fireplaces, Teflon cookware and Teflon coated items give off fumes that can kill your bird.
5) Keep plants away from the bird so they cannot chew (almost all plant leaves and stems are poisonous to birds).
6) Put all electrical cords in PVC pipe or other protective piping, if possible (the birds will chew the cords and electrocute themselves).
7) Hot light bulbs can burn your bird.
8) Before you take your bird out of the cage, be sure all ceiling fans are turned off and have stopped rotating. Spinning ceiling fan blades can kill or maim your bird.
9) When your bird is out of the cage, insure someone in the family is attending to it to keep it company and to protect it from its own curiosity and chewing habits.
Thanks to Oklahoma Avicultural Society
21). Need some safe cooking tips for your bird?
When cooking for your pets, its is important to remember that care should be taken in several areas:
1) Non-stick surfaces can produce toxic elements. Aluminum products give off aluminum salt which may be toxic. Use glass, ceramic or stainless steel cooking utensils.
2) Cooking at temperatures over 120 degrees Fahrenheit usually destroys natural enzymes.
3) Cooked food which is left out for more than an hour or so can develop bacteria and molds which may be harmful. Remove uneaten cooked foods within an hour if they contain meat sources or raw fruits. Pasta products should not be left out for more than 4 hours. Cooking may or may not remove bacteria and salmonella.
4) Once cut up and exposed to air, bacteria and molds can start to grow on raw vegetables and fruits. It is best to use low-moisture, naturally dried fruits which have not been treated with chemical preservatives or mold inhibitors. Wash fresh fruit thoroughly.
5) Make sure fresh nuts are unprocessed and do not have salt added.
6) Read the label. Refined carbohydrates (sugar, dextrose, etc.) put extra stress on the pancreatic gland and may cause a problem with sugar metabolism. Dried fruits are the best source rather than added sugar or dextrose.
When adding vitamins & minerals:
A) Liquid vitamins deteriorate rapidly. In most cases, vitamin potency is lost after a few hours. Liquid vitamins should be replaced after 24 hours.
B) Dry vitamins mixed with foods are more stable.
C) It is better to put vitamins into mixtures after cooking.
D) Adding “mega-doses” of vitamins and minerals can lead to nutrient imbalances which create vitamin/mineral deficiencies. Always follow label directions.
7) Before using medications or antibiotics, please consult your veterinarian. Antibiotics can destroy certain beneficial bacteria in the system which can lead to nutritional problems. Prolonged use of certain antibiotics can cause certain disease carrying bacteria to become antibiotic resistant.
Thanks to Oklahoma Avicultural Society
Recommended Links
What are some other good bird related resources?
Articles, references, and books on birds and bird related subjects can be found at many book stores, public libraries, and of course online. Here are some links to excellent bird reference sites:
Oklahoma Avicultural Society
The Oklahoma Avicultural Society, a Tulsa based bird club, has been serving the needs of the avian community in Eastern Oklahoma, parts of Arkansas, Missouri and Kansas since the late 1980's. OAS is dedicated to educating present and future bird owners, as well as the general public, on aspects of aviculture and proper care of avian companions.
Association of Avian Veterinarians
To find an avian vet in your area, try your local phone directory, contact local breeders or bird clubs for recommendations, or you can search the Association Of Avian Veterinarian's web site for a certified avian vet near you.
The Alex Foundation
Since 1977, Dr. Irene Pepperberg's studies in Animal Behavior, and Animal-Human communications have provided insight into the capabilities of parrots to talk and to understand. The Alex Foundation was established to support research on psittacine intelligence and communication. The Foundation helps provide funding for Dr. Irene Pepperberg's work with African Grey's - Alex, Griffin, Arthur aka ''Wart'' and Kyaaro.
Ask Dr. Petra Drake
Dr. Drake provides her visitors with summaries on many veterinary topics, including advice on choosing a bird, feeding a bird, housing and avian diseases.
Parrot Line
Parrot Line was formed as a 24-hour advisory service in 1994/5. It is now the largest parrot rescue charity in the United Kingdom.
The Bird Hotline
Their goal is to reunite lost birds with their families, increase the public's awareness of the wonder of birds, and to improve the quality of their lives by answering your bird questions on the Bird Help Line and Vet Talk.
Bird Talk Magazine
This magazine includes everything you need to know to help keep your pet bird healthy and active. Get important information on bird health care and nutrition, step-by-step training, grooming how-to's and caging tips. Readers also enjoy colorful photos, entertaining stories, and a centerfold poster in each monthly issue.
About Birds
About.com's pet bird section has a large variety of information, links, and articles on many different bird-related subjects. The article topics range from teaching your budgie to talk to what to do when your bird starts laying eggs.
 |
Home Page Current Price List Health Guarantee Baby Pictures Perches, Swings & Bells $ 5 Toys Toy Parts Site Map Breeder Supplies Info & Policies BIG Toys Spirulina Recommended Links |
